At the very top of the Jaffna peninsula, at Keerimalai, a temple to Shiva stands a few steps from the sea. Naguleswaram is the northernmost of the Pancha Ishwarams, the five ancient Shiva temples of Sri Lanka. It shares its site with the sacred Keerimalai Springs, where many pilgrims come to bathe. Most people visit the two together.
Inside, long corridors of painted pillars and arches lead towards the shrine. Shiva figures and murals in strong, bright colours cover the walls. If you have already seen Nallur Kandaswamy Temple in Jaffna town, this is a quieter temple with a long and battered history.
The mongoose-faced sage
The temple’s name comes from a legend. According to legend, the sage Nagula Muni had the face of a mongoose until he bathed in the springs here. Cured, he raised a shrine to Shiva. People usually translate Keerimalai as “mongoose hill”, and so the story ties the temple and the water together.
Naguleswaram’s sister temples in the Pancha Ishwaram group include Koneswaram above the sea at Trincomalee and Ketheeswaram near Mannar.
Destroyed and rebuilt, more than once
The Portuguese destroyed the original temple in the 17th century, along with other Hindu temples in the north. The present building dates from the 19th century, from the Hindu revival led by the reformer Arumuka Navalar.
The civil war hit it hard. The fighting damaged the temple, which then spent years under military occupation, when devotees needed permission to come and worship. Reconstruction finally followed the end of the war.
Festival days
The temple’s big days are Maha Shivaratri, Maasi Magam and Aadi Amavasai. Aadi Amavasai is the new-moon day of the Tamil month of Aadi (roughly mid-July to mid-August). On Aadi Amavasai pilgrims perform rituals for their ancestors and bathe in the springs, so expect crowds. Come on one of these days for the atmosphere, or avoid them if you want the corridors to yourself.
Visiting
This is a working temple. Keep your voice down and ask before photographing people at worship. Visitors report that the temple expects modest dress and that shoes come off before you enter the shrines. If in doubt, follow what other visitors do at the door. There are no published opening hours or entry fee, so check locally.
Keerimalai is on the north coast, so plan it as its own outing from Jaffna by car or tuk-tuk. Ask your guesthouse for the best way there. Parts of Jaffna District are still held by the military, so check locally that the road is open before you set out. On the way, stop at the coral-stone Kandarodai stupas near Chunnakam, and see our Jaffna guide for where to stay.
Frequently asked questions (FAQs)
Where is Naguleswaram Temple?
At Keerimalai, near Kankesanthurai on the northern coast of the Jaffna peninsula, beside the Keerimalai Springs.
Who is the temple dedicated to?
Shiva. It is the northernmost of the five ancient Shiva temples known as the Pancha Ishwarams.
What is the link with Keerimalai Springs?
Legend says bathing in the springs cured the sage Nagula Muni, who then built a shrine to Shiva here. Many pilgrims come to bathe in the springs.
When are the busiest festivals?
Maha Shivaratri, Maasi Magam and Aadi Amavasai, the new-moon day of the Tamil month of Aadi.
Is there a dress code?
Visitors report that the temple expects modest dress and that you take off your shoes before entering the shrines.
Header photo: Ronie Ranjan / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
